Oh boy, Hanoi.
Onto the next leg of our trip to Asia… Vietnam. Hanoi is the first stop — a city filled with French-colonial mansions, ancient temples, and vibrant coffee shops. Notable landmarks include the mausoleum of former president Ho Chi Minh, the 11th-century One Pillar Pagoda, and Hoa Lo Prison, infamously known as the "Hanoi Hilton."
“I’m blown away.
Our trip from Bangkok to Hanoi was probably the most relaxed flight I’ve ever experienced, and once again, we were fast-tracked through security. As we stepped out after passport control, we were greeted by crowds of people holding bunches of flowers — it was the first day of travel after Covid restrictions had been eased. On the road, motorbikes zipped past carrying kumquat and peach blossom trees, symbols of wealth and good luck.
The hotel — I am at a loss for words (not the last time I’ll say that this trip). It feels straight out of the 1920s, and our suite even has framed photos of me and my boyfriend with our dogs. I mean, what a way to greet your guests, really making you feel like this is your home away from home. The attention to detail is incredible. The decor is meticulously crafted, with art deco influences, opulent furnishings, and theatrical touches reminiscent of old-world grandeur. Every corner feels like a curated experience.
The food at the hotel is spectacular, though breakfast feels a bit overwhelming with too many choices. After 20 minutes of hearing all the options, it becomes a bit much. The only downside is that the staff might benefit from stepping back and letting guests decide more freely.
The city outside? It’s absolutely buzzing. We’re right in the centre of the historic French Quarter and the architecture is incredible. With so many things to discover only a stones throw away, we decided to leave the inner sanctum of the hotel so off we went exploring.
We took a long walk around Hoan Kiem Lake. Kids were riding little motorized bikes everywhere with these flashing lights, and around 150 people were ballroom dancing in the middle of the park. It’s such a joyful sight, the kind of thing you’d never see in London — or anywhere else, really. If it did happen back home, it’d probably get shut down as an illegal rave. I’m struck by how much I love Vietnam. There’s a striking juxtaposition of wealth and poverty — a Marc Jacobs store stands next to people living in shacks — but the energy is overwhelmingly positive, with people seemingly happy and vibrant.
We visited Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum, his stilt house, and then the One Pillar Pagoda. The experience is very structured and slightly eerie, a stark reminder of the country’s communist roots. At Hoa Lo Prison, we explored what remains of the site — including the death cells where prisoners were once shackled, leaving their leg muscles to atrophy. It’s a chilling glimpse into the past.
Tuk-tuks, which irritate me in London, somehow feel right here. Being surrounded by swarms of motorbikes is intense and surreal.
One thing that really stood out for me, outside of the warmth and joy of the people and the incredible food and architecture, is on a more personal level. I was surprised I didn’t really see any queerness. I didn’t expect it to be the most open of places, but the difference to Bangkok was vast. No sign of couples holding hands, no overtly queer characters. In a city as vast as this I was somewhat perplexed. That’s not to say it dampened the experience at all. Vietnam… so far… is a magical place. I can’t wait to see more.